Honey From A Weed
Weight | 0.715000 |
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ISBN13/Barcode | 9781903018200 |
ISBN10 | 190301820X |
Author | Patince Gray (Author) Corinna Sargood (Ilustrated) |
Binding | Paperback |
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Date Published | 20th December 2001 |
Pages | 375 |
Publisher | Prospect Books |
Hard as it is to believe, Gray struggled to find a publisher for Honey From a Weed. This was, remember, years before the advent of Fergus Henderson, and his nose-to-tail eating; René Redzepi, the chef at Noma in Copenhagen was still at school. No one knew what to make of a book that included, among other things, a recipe for fox, one that had been given to Gray “by an old anarchist in Carrara” (the carcass, she notes, must be kept in running water for three days before it may be cooked). In 1986,
however, it was finally taken on by Alan Davidson, the food historian who founded the tiny Prospect Books.
The reception to its publication was in the main positive, even a little rhapsodic. Angela Carter, for instance, acclaimed it as “unique and pungent… a baroque monument”. But others were more wary. In her review, the biographer Fiona MacCarthy noted the book’s “quality of lunatic conviction”. And it’s true: it does have such a quality. Yes, there are perfectly straightforward recipes among its pages for wild boar and fish soup, risotto and pasta; if you want to know how to marinate sardines or what to do with cuttlefish, Gray will tell you. But it is the bitter weeds – among them comfrey, sorrel, broomrape, fat-hen and tassel hyacinth – on which Gray and Mommens feasted every other night that she eulogises, making these modest, wild plants sound both delicious and life-giving: a kind of holy medicine. Still, what looked like madness yesterday may seem utterly sane the next. As we move into an increasingly uncertain future – a report by leading academics recently suggested that Britain is “sleepwalking” into post-Brexit food insecurity – the message of Honey From a Weed, by turns ascetic and celebratory, may come to seem more powerful still. When she wrote it, Gray knew that she was recording the past, rescuing “a few strands” from a former way of life like some social anthropologist out in the field. What she can’t have known then is that her book would also be shot through with a pungent taste of the future.